The Taste of Tomorrow
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  • Grilled locusts in Thailand.

    Maybe once, in a mescal-induced trance, you sucked down the little worm (actually a moth larva) at the bottom of the bottle. But insects as a regular source of sustenance? Bizzare Foods territory, right? Actually, there is nothing bizarre about eating crawly little buggers.

    In fact, insects might hold the answer to a growing world’s food needs. They are high in protein, low in fat and cholesterol and plentiful. As it is, about 70 percent of all grain goes to feeding livestock. The developing world’s taste for meat will only intensify that imbalance.

    It’s not exactly a new idea. People in 80 percent of the world’s nations eat more than 1,000 insects, according to a July 2010 Guardian article. So, what will it take for Americans to get past the queasiness factor? A Thailand vacation might help. Sure, you will find food carts hawking fried crickets to thrill-seeking backpackers on Bangkok’s Khao San Road.

    But try going farther afield for a wider range of insect delicacies in the markets and fairs that dot the countryside.

    On a trip around the Land of Smiles a few years ago, I tried fried grilled locusts at a highway rest stop and water beetles at a community festival. They were – surprise – pretty tasty. It’s not so surprising, actually, when you consider what a little hot oil, salt and chili leaves will do for just about anything. It didn’t seem like a stretch to imagine them as bar snacks.

    In the U.S., urbanites can find insects on some daring restaurants’ menus. Entrepreneurs such as University of Chicago student Matthew Krisiloff are beginning to market them. Krisiloff’s Entom Foods is gearing up to sell crickets, grasshoppers and mealworms shaped like shrimp or made into patties like hamburgers sans wings, eyes and legs. Publications such as The New Yorker, Time Out and The New York TimesChicago News Cooperative have taken notice.

    Don’t think you will ever see insects in the snack aisle? It’s worth recalling that as late as the 1800s, Americans considered lobsters a repulsive food source. “Even in the harsh penal environment of early America, some colonies had laws against feeding lobsters to inmates more than once a week because it was thought to be cruel and unusual, like making people eat rats, David Foster Wallace wrote in his 2004 Gourmet article, “Consider the Lobster.”

    – Rob Jordan

    Two other thoughts from the ToT to encourage insect-eating from an FAO report:

    1. They’re organic.

    “Edible insects from forests are an important source of protein, and unlike those from agricultural land, they are free of pesticides,” said Paul Vantomme, an FAO forestry expert, in a rep or

    2. They’re healthful.

    For every 100 grams of dried caterpillars, there are about 53 grams of protein, about 15 percent of fat and about 17 percent of carbohydrates. Their energy value amounts to around 430 kilocalories per 100 grams. Caterpillars are also believed to have a higher proportion of protein and fat than beef and fish with a high energy value.  

  • Quick: What food is highly nutritional, abundant, renewable and possibly the answer to global warming?

    Quick #2:   What was the foodstuff that the ToT author most regretted not featuring in the book with its own chapter? (see previous mea culpa posts, & “About Us”)

     

    Seaweed, the perfect sustainable food, has long been a staple in Asia but has yet to show up on most American plates.

    That’s why we’re excited to see a recent spate of interest from the mainstream media.

    Fast Company profiles efforts to use algae to make, among other things, baked goods such as cookies, Omega-3 oil supplements, infant formula and jet fuel. Time names algae food among its top 20 green tech ideas. Both FC and Time mention Solazyme. While it hopes to ultimately sell algae-based biofuels, the San Francisco-area startup is marketing algae as a low-fat, high-protein replacement for eggs, butter and oil. (NOTE: we’ve tried algae sugar cookies – yum)  The Atlantic points to seaweed as a pollution sponge, and cites a Dutch professor who claims a seaweed farm the size of Washington state could satisfy all the world’s protein needs.

    The jury is still out on seaweed. An Associated Press story outlines concerns about seaweed as a panacea. Is it harvested too quickly to measure or control its effect as a carbon sink? Will removing water during the fuel conversion process require lots of energy?

    It may be a while before the algae biofuel market heats up. In the meantime, T of T taste kitchen staff are going to run out to the nearest upscale market for some Maine Coast Sea Vegetables or Ocean Approved laver (Atlantic Ocean version of nori), kelp (large brown seaweed) and dulse (red leaf algae).

    Stay tuned for the results….

    Meanwhile, if you’re interested in seeing the extraordinary diversity of “seaweed,” check out this brilliant site curated by Irish seaweed expert Michael Guiry.

    – Rob Jordan

  • Hollywood = food.

    Lots of foodie-types will pick San Francisco or NYC. Cases can be made for Chicago or Montreal. We’ve enthused about the virtues of DC (see earlier post in “African cuisines”)

    But when the ToT staffers picked our favorite food city in North America, it was unanimous, a no-brainer.

    Here is part 1 of why when we think Hollywood we think food.

     1.Farmers Markets To Die For.

    SoCal has, of course, a really big advantage – the world’s best climate (pretty much). You can get locally grown lettuces and locally grown eggplants and locally grown peaches and locally grown almonds – in January or July. It also has another natural resource – a population filled with  food nerds that support the growing of obscure varieties and risky heirlooms.

    You may have heard about the farmers markets in Santa Monica or Hollywood or Downtown LA.

    But it’s the mediocre LA farmers markets that blow our minds. Your no-big deal LA farmers market might have 10 different types of heirloom lettuce, and 10 different varieties of mushrooms, a citrus bar with seven kinds of oranges,  a nut vendor, a berry specialist, not to mention a bunch of ethnic and artisanal options – in January.  An LA-area farmers market is where you probably have your best chance of crossing paths with an Australian finger lime or a Turkmen melon.  In short, if you’re the type of person who wants every trip to the farmers market to hold the potential of a rapturous food encounter – LA.

    Check out this slightly dated guide to the Best of LA’s farmers markets.

    2. The LA Times Farmers Market Beat Reporter  — The Fruit Detective

    The Woodward & Bernstein of the LA farmers market scene.

    If you are an LA Times food section reader,  or if you read one of the ToT’s favorite books, Adam Leith-Gollner’s The Fruit Hunters, you may know of David Karp.  He is the Woodward & Bernstein of the LA farmers market scene.

    Karp, aka “The Fruit Detective,” is most renowned for his unparalleled knowledge – and obsessive interest – in obscure and exotic fruit.  (For more on Karp, see The Fruit Hunters
    or an excellent New Yorker piece by John Seabrook).

    The Fruit Detective is the chronicler of the LA farmers market scene, writing weekly dispatches for the Times food section. In the past few months alone,  Karp has introduced readers to African scarlet eggplant, Indian blood firestone peaches, green almonds, Red Brussels sprouts, the possibilities of Italian lemons, the melons of Turkmenistan.

    If you’re interested to learn about the 43 varieties of figs – and how and when they taste different, and who the best fig growers are, Karp will amaze you.  If you want to know where to find Australian finger limes, how to select the best grapefruits, how to grow matusake mushrooms in a trailer, consult Karp. The ToT loves him because his passions could foreshadow what could be The Next Big Thing in Produce.  Please savor this classic piece of Fruit Detective work on the varieties of cactus pears beginning to appear at LA markets:

     3. Central Vietnamese.

    North of pho and banh mi, there is bun bo Hue and jackfruit noodle salad.   We know this because, like Randy Newman, we love Los Angeles.

    In LA, it’s not just Vietnamese, it’s  Central VietnameseIt’s not just Thai; it’s Isaan Thai.  LA has Chinatown and Japantown, it also has Little Cambodia and Little Laos and Little Saigon Westminster.

    Yes –there are multiple Little Vietnams.  LA has a whole 100,000-person plus suburb that’s mostly Armenian.   There are suburbs chock full of Islamic Chinese food. The only place in the US that rivals it, in terms of luscious, hyper-diversity, is Western Queens (Jackson Heights, Corona, Elmhurst).  What’s so mind-bending about LA’s diversity is the limitless ethnic chowing to be done in the suburbs of the San Gabriel Valley. In brief, LA, birthplace of the Korean taco, is an ethnic food amusement park.

     4. The David Karp of the San Gabriel Valley Ethnoburbs – Jonathan Gold.   

    The Man (for LA chow hound-types)

    Jonathan Gold, the LA Weekly’s food writer, is no secret.  They finally gave him a Pulitzer Prize. The New Yorker called him “the high low priest of LA food” that readers look to for advice on “where to get crickets, boiled silkworms, cocoons and fried grasshoppers” and where to get the best Isaan Thai (That’s northeastern Thai). Gold is your man if you’re going to Long Beach’s Little Cambodia, or looking for some authentic central Vietnamese food.  Ditto you’re looking for the best Peruvian or Nicaraguan on Pico Boulevard. (Like scaling Everest, pre-planning is essential to approaching the vast LA ethnic smorgasbord)

    Gold also happens to be incredibly entertaining.  If you want a taste, he dispense his weekly restaurant and other advice  on the LA-based food show, Good Food, hosted by Evan Kleiman.

    More on why we love LA next month…

    Meantime, one non-LA note: great piece by Mark Bittman in the NYT travel section on Indian restaurants in London.

  • As many of you will soon find out, probably on April 12 or 13th, when your copy of The Taste of Tomorrow arrives via Fed Ex, UPS, or Express Mail,  or DHL (in the UK, Germany or Japan), much of the book is focused on the burning question:

    What will the hamburger of the future look and taste like?

    Will it be a 20th Century-style burger?  Or will it be goat, emu,  ostrich, or some other yet-to-be domesticated species?

    Not to totally blow the T of T’s narrative suspense here, but your protagonist becomes concerned about certain environmental issues related to burger-eating.   And after examining some of the options, he becomes fixated not just on mouthfeel and taste, but on finding tasty, healthy, environmentally-friendly burgers that could make this type of discussion over the nefarious impact of cow farts moot.

    In short,  The Taste of Tomorrow gets really excited about lab grown meat, aka cultured meat, sometimes called test tube meat, or in vitro meat. Here’s a recent article from Gourmet Live, in which the T of T’s author enthuses about a future in which we’ll be eating cow-less, kill-free burgers.

    Could this be Year One? 

    One of the major plot points on the way to this kill-free, methane-gas emission and ranch-land reduced  future is the successful completion and consumption of The Prototype.

    There’s been a lot of talk in the media (and in the book) that this could be Year 1.   Here’s are a few examples of such talk  “Lab Grown Meat Gets Closer”,  “Meat Shmeat,” “The Frankenburger: Why ‘Cultured Meat’ is Humanity’s Destiny.” 

    All of this hinges on a project underway in the Netherlands (which you’ll learn about extensively in The Taste of Tomorrow.)

    We’ll keep you apprised of the some of the progress – and setbacks – in in vitro meat research as they happen, both here and on the T of T’s new Facebook page. And we’ll also include updates on some other research towards environmentally-friendly meat alternatives, such as this mock chicken product.  But if you hunger for MORE in vitro meat/meat alternative news,  for nearly daily updates from the mock/cultured meat frontier, the best spot is the New Harvest site, which has assembled a massive collection of citations, by Jason Matheny.  

  • The TofT's favorite spot for egusi stew.

     The range of West African food options in Chicago, USA is not great.  As we’ve lamented in earlier posts, if you’re a Cubs fan looking for Nigerian food – or Ghanaian or Senegalese – your best is probably to jump on a flight to NYC or DC or maybe  LA.

    Experiences with W. African in Chi-town have been mixed at best (the one notable exception is Yassa, a wonderful Senegalese place.) But Yassa is on the southside; it is an epic commute from the T of T’s Evanston (north suburb) headquarters.  One must pass through the gauntlet (aka the Loop) to get there. And the T of T’s author has a short attention for traffic jams, and is still struggling with his road rage problem.

    That’s why we are so pleased to announce that we have discovered an excellent Nigerian restaurant in Rogers Park, a northside neighborhood, roughly 15 minutes from T of T headquarters.

    The maker of the egusi, the Qaato Restaurant, is easy to miss – I’ve probably driven past it 20 times before noticing the  “Authentic Nigerian & West African restaurant” sign.  Qaato is on a strip of a north Clark that’s a blur of down-in-the-mouth  retail (taco joints, Chinese take-out, pawn shops, dollar stores)  And when you enter the dark, nearly barren restaurant, which reminded me of a friend’s basement during the disco years, you might have the some anxious thoughts. But resist these thoughts.  Savor the high-volume Afro pop, and make that order.

    What makes Qaato worthy of an eccentrically-long T of T post is their mind-expanding egusi – that’s the soup that is to Nigerians what bouillabaisse is to the French, or Tom Yum is to the Thai.

    Egusi done right is an insanely spicy broth (stew, really) of ground melon or mango seeds, shrimp (sometimes), spinach, peppers, and a protein (fish, oxtail, goat)

    Egusi soup? It's more stew-like.

    Qaato’s fish egusi, which was served in a shallow bowl, (it’s really more stew, than soup) is not for everyone.  It’s for the type who favors vindaloo over curry & only orders the “blazin” option at Buffalo Wild Wings.

    For the weak-stomached, korma-favoring reader: another way of coping with the hotness of egusi is to make smart use of your sides – jollof rice and garri. We’ve had our share of jollof rice at the T of T – often it tastes like nightmare-quality cheap Chinese restaurant fried rice (due to abuse of palm oil and salt. But Qaato’s jollof (rice, tomatoes, onions, light palm oil, spinach free) is wonderful In fact, if you throw some jollof rice in your egusi stew, you’ll mitigate the spice, and you’ll have thoughts of gumbo.

    A big blog of fermented cassava known as garri.

    The other side dish we tried is garri  which is a big blob of mashed fermented cassava.  It has the faint smell of wet socks,  and, unadorned, it doesn’t taste much better than wet socks. But the garri isn’t supposed to be eaten plain – it’s your dipping tool.   To eat like a Nigerian, pinch off the fermented cassava, roll it into a ball, and then dip it in your egusi.  It functions like pita bread or the Ethiopian injera, and is an excellent way of managing the heat.

    Qaato is so temptingly close to The Taste of Tomorrow headquarters that we’ll have a chance for regular egusi runs (next up: oxtail); we’re also hoping to persuade the friendly-proprietor (who is said to be open to customer suggestions) to make us some suya – that’s the barbecued meat kebab, coated with groundnuts and chili pepper and other spices that is served throughout Nigeria, but is no where to be found in Chi-town.  My idea for a spicy feast: egusi, suya, tempered with Star (a West African beer). Will keep you apprised.

    Meantime,  if you live in a Nigerian-restaurant deprived community, and are jonesing for egusi, check out this excellent how-to-egusi video from Yeti on the indispensable web site AfroFoodTv.Com. There’s also a good egusi recipe on this UK-based African foods site.

  • You’ll find more fennel paired peri-peri sauce, more caramelized honey paried with adzuki red beans, and green peppercorn served with goat’s milk.

    Yep, gird yourself for a wave of green peppercorn and goat’s milk.

    That’s according to the 2011 Flavor Forecast – from McCormick.

    As readers of The Taste of Tomorrow  will find out, a chunk in the book focused on the Food Future Punditocracy – that is, the Jimmy the Greeks of the food world, people who specialize in divining what we’ll be eating, how we’ll be eating, where and when we’ll be eating.

    By far, the happiest time of the year for connoisseurs of Food Futurania is the holiday season.  In addition to holiday parties, and Lexus commercials, it’s the season for Top 10 Food Trends of the year lists. It’s also the time for scads of recap lists and best-of lists and years-in-review lists.

    The Girl Scouts “locavore badge,” the rise of food trucks, the artisan cheese movement in Japan – those are among the highlights from the Foodspring 20, the NASFT, producer of the Fancy Food show, annual recap.  Meanwhile, Phil “The Supermarket Guru” Lempert’s lists Vlasic Sodium Reduced Pickles and Totino’s Pizza Stuffers as two “of the biggest misses” on his 2011 list.  Now, some of the food trend list predictions/recaps will strike average humanoids as perfectly ridiculous – as a writer for Chowhound snarkily (but fairly observed), will we really be eating grilled cheese-infused vodka in 2010?  And will we really be eating green peppercorn with goat’s milk?

    I’ll keep you apprised of  notable food prognostications  (either due to possible prescience or extreme ridiculousness) that come my way…
    Meantime, here is an excellent Chowhound interview on the food trend-list cottage industry. The trend expert here happens to be Kara Nielsen, my favorite food prognosticator who also happens she’s also the key person in the book.

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